PAST TOURS

RUSSIAN SACRED ART | 4–10 September 2016
TOUR REPORT

Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Rostov Velikii (the Great), Vladimir and Suzdal – names that evoke the Russian past, the period when power shifted from Kiev to the north east. GRAD’s first cultural trip focussed on the churches, monasteries, palaces, icons and frescoes of this area, but these were not the only treats in store for the eleven people who assembled at Moscow airport in early September. Based in the town of Yaroslavl, a World Heritage site beside the Volga, we began by exploring the architectural riches of the town which reached the height of its commercial power and influence in the 17 century. It seemed as though every corner revealed another beautiful church, many decorated floor to ceiling with frescoes, and set among gracious neo-classical buildings of the late 18 and early 19 centuries. Visits both within Yaroslavl and to the historic towns and places beyond were supported by expert guiding and lectures from specialists in the field that were more fascinating guided talks than formal presentations.

Squat white-washed kremlin towers, the vision of the famous Tolgskii monastery from our boat on the Volga are some of the things we will not forget. Another was the visit to the charming small town of Plyos where the painter Isaak Levitan spent his summers in the late 1880s and to its small museum. This place among many others was where my lingering prejudices about the standard of restaurants in provincial Russia were swept away. Who can forget the feast of Russian delicacies (including rather surprisingly ‘kish’ i.e. ‘quiche’) in the quirky restaurant in Plyos looking down to the little town and the Volga? Though our hotel’s Bavarian restaurant offered not much more than convenience, we had delicious and memorable meals elsewhere. And thanks to the weakness of the ruble, nothing was outrageously expensive.

The unique nature of this trip stemmed from its non-commercial basis. Firstly, those who signed up were seriously interested as well as excellent company. Our guides and lecturers were not just experts but people who wanted to share their own love of their area. They succeeded. If timings tended to slide, partly because we had so many questions (plus the array of souvenirs was extremely tempting!), no one complained. It was an experience none of us will forget and we owe a debt of gratitude to the two Natalias (Natalia Murray from GRAD for her patience and good humour, Natalia the guide for her knowledge and charm and the dynamic Viktor for his organisation). If GRAD organises more such trips, do sign on.

RUSSIAN SACRED ART
4–10 September 2016
Yaroslavl and the Cities of the Golden Ring of Russia

The adoption of Christianity in Russia in 988 marked the beginning of the ancient Russian art. Throughout eight hundred years (10th – 17th centuries) the ancient Russian art sought to embody in itself the Christian faith and create “theology in colour” by making the images and the words inseparable from each other.

East of Moscow lies the land of small historical towns, ancient onion-domed churches and largely unspoilt countryside, often referred to as the ‘Golden Ring of Russia’.

The jewel of the Golden Ring was largely bypassed by 20th-century modernisation – or destruction – and still feels almost rural, like an old Russian merchants’ town: its golden-domed churches mingle with quaint wooden cottages and a serene little river dreamily meanders through flower-covered meadows and green hills.

We will be based in Yaroslavl – the jewel in the ‘golden ring of Russia’ dotted with onion domes like no other place in Russia. Here we will start every day with one lecture at the Yaroslavl University given by specialist in medieval Russian art followed by guided tours around towns and churches located along Volga river.

PRELIMINARY PROGRAMME:

Sunday, 4 September – arrival

Monday, 5 September

• Lecture by the deputy director of Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastry-Museum, Dr. Mikhail Kerbikov ‘Treasures of the Russian Sacristies’ at the Sacristy of Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastry [Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour] (founded in the 12th century, it was one of Russia’s richest and most fortified monasteries until 1500’s)
• Workshop led by Dr. Natalia Mironova ‘Reading 17th century Russian frescoes’ in five churches in Yaroslavl
• Lunch
• River cruise to Tolgskii Monastery

• Lecture by the leading expert in Russian icons, keeper of icons and deputy director of the Yaroslavl Museum, Aleksey Fedorchuk ‘Decoding Russian Icons’, at the Ceremonial Hall of the House of the Governor of Yaroslavl
• Lunch
• Trip to Rostov Velikii, Borisogleb and Uglich

Rostov Velikii is rich in ancient architecture, with many monuments dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Dominating the central square is the impressive 16th Century Assumption Cathedral and between the square and the lake is the Kremlin, which has eleven beautifully ornate towers and is home to several elaborately decorated churches and palaces.

A local tradition dates Uglich to 937. It was first documented in 1148 as Ugliche Pole (Corner Field). The town's name is thought to allude to the nearby turn in the Volga River.

Uglich had been the seat of a small princedom from 1218 until 1328 when the local princes sold their rights to the great prince of Moscow. As a border town of the Grand Duchy of Moscow, it was burned several times by Lithuanians, Tatars, and the grand prince of Tver.

Grand Duke Ivan III of Moscow gave the town to his younger brother Andrey Bolshoy in 1462. During Andrey's reign, the town was expanded and first stone buildings were constructed. Particularly notable were the cathedral (rebuilt in 1713), the Intercession Monastery (destroyed by the Bolsheviks) and the red-brick palace of the prince (completed in 1481 and still standing). Apart from the kremlin, the city center features other nice samples of old Russian architecture. Particularly notable are the Alexeievsky monastery and the Assumption three-tented church (1628) which are considered true gems of Russian medieval architecture. Closer to the bank of the Volga one may see the Resurrection Monastery with its huge cathedral, refectory, belfry and summer church. All these buildings stand in a row and date back to 1674-77. Opposite the monastery is the graceful Church of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist. It was built in 1689-90 by a local merchant to commemorate the spot where his son had drowned.

• Lecture by the head of the department of medieval Russian Art at the Yaroslavl Museum, Dr. Viktoria Gorshkova ‘Yaroslavl, Moscow and Kostroma – laboratories of the Russian style’, at the Archbishop’s Chambers
• Lunch
• Trip to Kostroma and Plyos

Kostroma is known as the ‘Cradle of the Romanov dynasty’ since it was home to first Tsar of the Romanov Dynasty. It is a 12th century town which sits on the banks of the Volga River. We will visit the Epiphany and St. Ipathy Monasteries, see the frescoes inside the Trinity Cathedral and wander around Susanina Square.

Plyos, located about 370 kilometres northwest of Moscow, in the center of the Golden Ring, is widely referred to as the pearl of the Volga. This small town on the Volga River has long been famous for its serene atmosphere, picturesque hilltop views of a 3-kilometer-long quay and the house-museum of Isaac Levitan, a prominent landscape painter of the 19th century.

Its quay is dotted with one-story wooden and brick buildings with renovated facades on one side, and small boats and yachts scattered along the riverbank on the other.

• All-day trip to Vladimir and Suzdal

Vladimir is one of the oldest Russian cities which gave way to Moscow as Russia’s capital (long before St. Petersburg).Tour the impressive defensive fort built in 1108, the beautiful Assumption Cathedral with frescoes by the greatest of old Russian painters, Andrei Rublev and the famous Golden Gate.

‘The Golden Ring’ of Russia comes with a diamond and that’s Suzdal. In 1864, local merchants failed to coerce the government into building the Trans-Siberian Railway through their town. Instead it went through Vladimir, 35km away. As a result Suzdal was bypassed not only by trains, but by the 20th century altogether. This is why the place remains largely the same as ages ago – it is famous for enchanting wooden houses, medieval churches and the Assumption Refractory and prison, built on the order of Catherine II, to house those who committed crimes against the church. As it happens, Suzdal served as a royal capital when Moscow was a mere cluster of cowsheds. It transformed into a major monastic centre in the times of Ivan the Terrible and an important commercial hub later on. But nowadays, it seems perfectly content in its retirement from both business and politics.

• Lecture by the reader at the Yaroslavl University, specialist in British-Russian artistic exchange, Dr. Viktor Kulikov ‘Discovery of the “Russian Style” in the 19th century. First exhibitions of Russian medieval art in the West’ at the lecture theatre of Yaroslavl University
• Lunch
• Trip to Ivanovo

Ivanovo was first mentioned in 1561, when it was given to the Cherkassky princely family by Ivan IV, after the latter's marriage to Maria Cherkasskaya. Important centre in medieval Russia, it also played the most vital role in 20th century Russian history. Because of its textile manufacturing industry, Ivanovo earned the sobriquet of the "Russian Manchester" during the 19th century.

By the early 20th century, Ivanovo was competing for the title of the primary textile production center of Europe. As the workers' living conditions were appalling, the strikes were frequent. One of these strikes (May 14-July 22, 1905) led to the first Russian revolution.

Ivanovo has several important sites – such as Schudrovskaya Palatka (17th century), the first brick civil building, the Svyato-Vvedensky Monastery, the wooden Uspenskaya church, the mansion of A. Duringer (1910) and others.

Ivanovo is also famous for the iconic buildings in constructivist style – such as the Ship-house (1930), architect D. F. Fridman; the Horseshoe-house (1934), architect A. I. Panov; the Regional Bank building (1927), architect V. A. Vesnin; the Palace of Arts (1939), architect A. V. Vlasov; the Collective-house (1931), architect I. A. Golosov and others. There is also a famous museum of Soviet agitational textiles.

For further information and to book your place on the tour please call GRAD on +44 (0) 20 7637 7274 or email info@grad-london.com